Special places (2): Borgarfjörður Eystri

Borgarfjörður Eystri

As I wrote in part 1 about the Askja, I thought it would be fun to take you to places in Iceland that I find special. Although all of Iceland is special of course! I spoke to someone who had read part 1 and asked me ‘are you going to name all those beautiful places in the interior where it is difficult to get to and you need a 4×4?’

Indeed, but I will certainly write a number of blogs about places for which you do not need a 4×4. And this is one of them! Even though you have to cross a mountain pass, the road to it is easy and very beautiful.

Road number 94

Via road number 94 you drive from Egilsstadir to Bakkagerdi in about an hour. That’s if you didn’t stop at a candy machine halfway up! And of course that is not the only time to stop, views of the pass and many birds that have their breeding grounds just before the pass. Don’t rush, you’re in Iceland.

Puffins

Popularly you go to Borgarfjörður Eystri, but actually the sleepy village in the East Fjords is called Bakkagerði. Beautifully situated in the bowl of the bay, where you have a reasonable chance of spotting porpoises from the coastline. A large and beautiful campsite, three cafes, a tiny (and expensive) supermarket and a few B&Bs interspersed with villagers’ houses. If you don’t like camping like I like to do, Guesthouse Blabjorg is fantastic, but pricey.

You’ll be through it before you know it. If you drive all the way down the road you will come to a harbor and what is the main tourist attraction of the area: a breeding ground for puffins. Hundreds, even thousands, nest here between mid-April and August. A spectacle to see! For me personally, who has been coming to Iceland for years and years and has therefore seen thousands, it is mainly an area where you can take incredibly beautiful walks.

Hiking in the area

Where to begin?!

So many beautiful walks in this area where you can even go on multi-day trips with a lightweight tent. There are also a number of huts where you can spend the night and you can walk from Bakkagerdi to Seydisfjordur in about 3 to 4 days. The fjord is located a little further south, there is a bus connection between Seydisfjordur – Egilsstadir and Bakkagerdi, so luckily you can also return. There is a map of this beautiful area for sale in the village, but luckily you can also find it online. The Borgarfjordur Eystri site is also worth a visit for more information.

Brunavik

A nice walk starts near the harbor where the puffins are. Via walk number 19 on the map to the Brúnavik (Brown Bay) hut from 1944. The walk is a tough one due to the climb, but you will also be rewarded with beautiful views. The cabin itself is a bit dated, which is also what makes it so beautiful. You go back in time with the old stove and photo of BowWowWow (who remembers them?!) on the wall. You can extend the walk with route number 20, which will take you near Bakkagerdi. Remember to wear good footwear, because it can be very wet here. This applies to almost all walks in this area, forewarned counts for two.

Stórurð

All roads lead to…

For me, Stórurð is the most beautiful place in this area. So special! You can walk here in various ways. I think the nicest walk is via path no. 8 and further to the campsite via no. 13. That really is a full day of hiking and can be called tough to very tough! If you don’t have the time or fitness, go back and forth via route no. 10, but it’s still not a ‘walk in the park’! Please take your own safety seriously, make sure you have enough food and drinks, good shoes and let people know what you are going to do. The weather can suddenly change here and you have little or no coverage in this part.

The highlight is the mass of stone with the bright blue lakes that lie between them. There is a kind of circular walk through this central point. Something a German tour guide did not know and who to this day is still grateful to me for pointing it out to him. You will even find a cupboard somewhere with a guestbook, if you leaf through it you will regularly come across my name and the names of my groups.

Now that I’m writing this blog I’m just homesick for this place, the whole area. Watch puffins, take a long hike and then, in the evening, eat a delicious fish soup with a nice Icelandic beer in the Alfa Café to stretch your tired legs.

Tips

You can easily stay here for a few days. There is a nice campsite with beautiful views of the mountains, but also a luxurious B&B with hot tubs by the sea. Photos are below. If you stay here a little longer, do your shopping in Egilsstadir, in the supermarket in Bakkagerdi (which is also closed at all times) you pay the top price. Buy that map if you plan to walk! In the evening, walk a little further to the Alfa Café to reach the beautiful coast and look for porpoises or dolphins. Something else and not entirely unimportant, there is a huge festival here in July – usually in the third week – called Bræðslan. The campsite and B&Bs are overcrowded and there is hardly ever room anywhere. Check this in advance to avoid disappointment! In 2021, this will be around July 24.

We will visit this place (did I mention that it is beautiful here?) on our Tour of Iceland!

Enjoy!

Bakkagerdi

Stórurð en andere plekken